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Day 16: July 19th Southwaite to Shap

14/12/2025

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Yesterday, I moved on to Southwaite, to stay with Dan the chippy, and Alison - also a teacher (of Geography). They met when they were both working for PGL (which made me think of you, Jennifer Murphy! In fact they wanted to know which PGL you worked at, but I couldn't remember, I know now, coz I've looked it up but A&D both gone to work and left me here to lock up). Alison and Dave are both adventurers and travellers - and enjoying life to the full. Dave just completed a 1000mile cycle from Isle of Man to somewhere in Scotland (Pan Celtic Race) - in 7 days!!! Bear in mind I've just completed 464miles in two weeks and one can see how awesome that is. Dave says - "never again", although he's glad he did it. He's not competitive and would rather mooch AND it rained a lot. I agree wholeheartedly. Mooching is by far the best way.   

About to leave Southwaite - after a lazy morning updating social media. Trouble with being hosted is one has to be sociable! (Such a hardship - teehee!). On my way to Shap now - will add to this post later. . I think I'm more or less half way! Arrived at Alison and Dave's last night after 6pm (as requested, as they both work full time). If anyone watches 'Gardener's World' - Dave is a carpenter and built the wooden summer house at Chelsea Flower Show featured in tonight's episode. They are both keen cyclists, travellers and adventurers and we swopped tales of derring do over supper - I was so ready for bed. Very comfy bed - and Mabli slept on the bed too - shhh! I made them a wee thankyou card - my second doodle of the trip. Their cottage is right by the railway - i guess you could use the occasional passing train to tell the time!I have another Warmshowers Host arranged for tonight - in Shap (south of Penrith). Will let you all know how it goes, but I don't doubt it will be lovely.

​And so it proved.  Sharon's place was better than most hotels!  I was spoilt.  
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Day 15: July 18th.  the Manse/Gretna to Southwaite.

14/12/2025

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It was a wrench to leave the Manse -and head for Gretna AND England!   Yes, today I officially left Scotland and entered England - and its taken me as long to traverse Scotland and most 'proper' cyclists take to do the entire JOGLE.  But who's counting?  

Wondered around Carlisle for a while... hadn't realised Hadrian's wall included the Castle.  There were a lot of graduates from the Uni wondering around in posh frocks and suits.  End of the year parties, evidently.  

Bought Mabs an expensive pork chop - she hasnt had a really nice bone to crunch up for a while. Couldn't find anything for me... all cafe's seem to shut up shop at 3pm!   
Onwards and road closures meant i went 2 miles out my way to get to Southwaite. There's going to be a new big road South of Carlisle...
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Day 14: July 17th - Biggar to the Manse by the River Annan

14/12/2025

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Just about to leave Scotland and re-enter England. Comfortable stay at the Elphinstone Hotel in Biggar night before last - with a full cooked breakfast. Got myself a slightly gippy tummy though! I'd arranged a 'warmshowers' stay South of Lockerbie for last night. I wore shorts and t-shirt for the first time this trip. Best view - devil's beeftub - before a long and exciting drop into Moffat. 'Rumbling Tum' cafe full up and no room - so I went to another, where, for the first time, the proprieters declined to charge my bike battery.
Rest of the 49.97mile trip was accompanied by the roar of traffic from the motorway (sustrans route) - my host Tim commented that he really doesn't know why Sustrans goes that way, as there are much more pleasant back lanes. Mabli had her freedom for the last 3 miles or so down to Tim and Rosie's house by the river Annan - an old Manse, complete with graveyard next door.

St Mungo's is enormous, and the couple are gradually doing it up, as it hasn't been lived in for the past 10yrs. Came with land - woods - and what turned out to be the perfect workshop for Tim (he makes cargo e-bikes) buried in the brambles. I had a comfy bed in the music room. Mabli got to play with their two yr old collie Ember (and pinch her breakfast). We had a deliciius vegan barbecue for supper - with icecream for dessert. Imagine mozarella and sweetcorn fritters made in a wafflemaker over the barbie - sat on the terrace overlooking the river with haymaking going on in the fields across the way.

This morning I was sad to leave - Tim and Rosie and their youngest daughter were delightful and generous hosts. Tim even fixed the wheel permanently on the dog trailer (because the thingy that holds it in place had broken/fallen off somewhere after Edinburgh). So - pleasant riding today along NCR7. And now in Gretna on my way to anorher Warmshowers host in Southwaite, past Carlisle.

​Looking at the photos reminded me of how overgrown that old railway path got, in the morning.  The E-bike picked up a lot of grass and mud along the way.  

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Day 13: 16th July - after 2 days off in Edinburgh - cycling to Biggar

14/12/2025

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15th july:   I start off again tomorrow - headed for Biggar. But I've had a lovely LOVELY relaxing and rejuvenating time in Edinburgh. Last night, Lynn cooked roasted veg and salmon and we invited LeahinWanderlust to join us and heard her interesting tales. Then today, after walking to Leith alongside the 'waters' (where the poleeth dithmitheth uth) we caught the tram back. In town, we met old friends of mine from my Australian adventure Mel and Jon (they hosted me at their home in Brisbane before setting off on their own cycling adventures). They've been cycling around Spain and Portugal before coming to the UK - and they're off to Forres tomorrow. We drank a little (I was tiddly) in the Le Di-Van Wine Bar and had a thoroughly enjoyable couple hours before going home to Lynn's for an M&S Curry for two meal. Mabli has been (mostly) well behaved.

16th July:  Halfway to Biggar - it's been muggy and hot pedalling with the Pentland Hills shrouded in mist off to my right. I decided to stop at Whitmuir Farm cafe (I would totally recommend this place - i've had avocado toast, raspberry lemonade and CAKE!) - and the heavens opened - while I'm sat on the balcony under a roof...how fortuitous was that?! I would have been drenched - the rain came down like a power shower.    And hey! I'm now officially in the Scottish Borders.


Day 13 - it'll be two weeks of cycling, tomorrow, already. Have arrived in Biggar safely - and now holed up in the Elphinstone Pub/hotel. (locally known as the 'Elph'). (I might have to venture down for some grub pretty soon).
Later - We have both eaten -the landlady/host is very sociable.  The pub and restaurant are both very popular. Now ready to go to sleep - so quick update. Miles today 33 - total so far: 373.94 miles. There are more Warm showers hosts on the map, so I have the next two nights accommodation sorted - thanks to WarmShowers' generosity.
​
After missing the downpour, my luck held and it only threatened to rain - perhaps a few drops on the way to Biggar. Road Kill today? Two badgers. Saw a couple live buzzards too (NOT eagles - definitely). See lots of yellow wagtails too. Sound of traffic all embracing - though the road got quieter the more progress I made.
Tomorrow, on to just past Lockerbie.
First lot of photos - dog walk around Edinburgh on 14th July. 
Second lot of photos -  Meeting with old friends and new, walking along the Waters of Inverleith on 15th July
Third lot of photos - back on the road - Edinburgh to Biggar 16th July 
​
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The photos belonging to the previous post - Perth to Edinburgh.

14/12/2025

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Day 9 - July 12th Pitochry to Perth                                                                      Day 10 - July 13th: Perth to Edinburgh  48.94miles (339.87 total)

14/12/2025

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The Salutation Hotel is better known as the Sally - i now know, and has been around since the16th century. It was certainly a warren inside. Used to be a famous music venue back in the 70's - my teenage hey days - David Bowie, The Beatles etc have stayed and played there - and several of my favourite actors too. We won't mention Boris.
I arranged to meet up with my mate Sheenah who was willing to drive for an hour to meet up for lunch, bless her! She suggested Loch Leven's Larder - and we set the time for 11.30hrs. Sheenah lives in Pittenweem. Fife is famous for raising Robin Campbell too (Exeter Woodies will know who I speak of). Well blow me, despite 'moderate hills' to negotiate, i was about 10mins early!!! The exclamation marks are because I'm NEVER on time.   
We had a great catch up and i wish we could have spent more time together. Lunch was good and fresh too (Caesar salad). Continuing on - there were raspberries growing in the hedges and fine views. Dunfermline was a vast suberb - but the view overlooking the Forth Bridges was stunning. The ride over the old bridge was memorable - South Queensferry is where my friend Mon's daughter and her family reside - but she was out gallivanting - at which point i realised i was only 7.5miles from my next rendezvous (eta tomorrow) - and, as luck would have it, Lynn was having a quiet night in, so was happy for me to arrive a day early. Thankyou Lynn! And it started to rain just 5 mins before i arrived on her doorstep. Just fabulous timing and catching up with two old friends in one day was wonderful.
Once again, photos are in no particular order - it's too time consuming to put them in order and I've put off posting this blog because of just that!  Brought back memories just loading them up and browsing through them again.  

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Day 9: July 12th Pitlochry to Perth

14/12/2025

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​Day 9 and I'm on the 5th stage of Royston Wood's 18 stage route and reached Perth today. Having camped on the recreation ground last night - I thought I was probably in need of a shower, so I've booked into the Salutation Hotel (one of the Strathmore chain hotels). Dog friendly, but charged £15 cleaning surcharge, on what would have otherwise been quite reasonable for an ensuite single room. 290.93miles completed - but a couple of those miles today, were spent looking for an alternative route to make up for road works blocking all the cycle paths. They are building a HEUUWJ bridge over the River Tay - and it looks like something out of a Sci-fi movie - nearly constructed but a chunk missing... What a feat of engineering! I ended up going completely off road (after being directed by a local - the only other option being the A9 - no thanks!) and following a footpath alongside the River Tay. Couldn't go very fast - and Mabs loved it.
Starting out from Pitlochry was a little like following a Devon lane - much more agricultural surroundings and narrow, undulating route. I can tell I'm leaving the Highlands behind (sniff!) and entering the lowlands of Scotland (comparatively speaking).
This evening - treated myself to a pint of 6X in a rather lovely pub (if one ignores the two telly screens showing golf and tennis respectively) called 'The Old Ship'. Went in search of an evening meal and made the mistake of plumping for a place that had favourable google reviews and was dog friendly. It was overpriced fast food - pretty bland and greasy. Disappointing as the young staff were really friendly.
Mabli hops quite readily into her 'carriage' now, and lies down, even with the doors unzipped. It was SO warm today - she enjoyed the breeze. She has probably run about a third of the total distance, this past week - all these new experiences? She's pooped. I'm pretty tired too.
Yesterday's ride through Drumochter Pass has to be my all time favourite - lovely weather, a huge chunk of down hill and fabulous views - to feed the soul! And - did I see an Eagle? Probably not - having discussed later with a knowledgeable friend, it was likely a Honey Buzzard (larger than the English version)
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Day 8: Thursday 11th July To Pitlochry

14/12/2025

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 Set out from the hotel this morning - having overheard the cheers from the bar as England beat the NL in the semi's last night! Everything dried out satisfactorily. Sleeping mat leak located and repaired (i hope!) - it was an old repair that had broken down. Time will tell. Then i jumped into the bath tub that I'd used to locate the leak. Mabs taken out for stroll at 6am - she'd hassled me briefly at 4am but i'd ignored her. All in all - constructive morning - and was away shortly after 9am. Lively ride to Darwhinnie along a wide valley following theTruim on the old A9- with the new A9 way across the other side. I've been playing catch up with another laden cyclist all morning (who I saw in a cafe yesterday, so I might see again). Mabli barked at her very rudely. Mabli has run all the way, so far , getting wet at frequent intervals and sitting in the hedge obligingly whenever a car comes along. Am now sat in a cafe (The Apiary) that does a cracking bacon and egg breakfast bap!
Show less​ to Tourist Info in Pitlochry - and we decided together that I should wild camp down on the recreation pitch tonight- that's a first! 43.1 glorious miles today - and the scenery, the weather, was fabulous. Swooping over the Drumochter Pass was probably one of the best days of the trip.   Now I'm dining out in a place that doesn't mind dogs, or me charging up the bike battery. Best sighting of the day - a big bird of prey - looked very like an eagle (and less like a buzzard) swooped down over the cycle path not 12 ft in front of me, from right to left and into the trees before i could even think of stopping and whipping a camera out!  (I found out later that it was a Honey Buzzard).  
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Days 6 and 7:  Tuesday 9th and Wednesday 10th July 2024.

12/12/2025

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  The Ardness campsite don't like dogs INSIDE anywhere - so I took her in the showerblock anyway - stops her scaring folk by barking at 'em. I had a good discussion with the gardener (who is as deaf as I am, but was listening to a book using bluetooth!) - he told me about someone who brought her cats with her, in her campervan. One of the cats went walkabout and decided to brush itself on the legs of someone who had a fierce allergy to cats... whoops! I moved on around 9.30 (picking up my charged bike battery from reception. All the farmers round about are busy, busy, busy harvesting, making the most of the long summer days up here. Several humongous tractors went past driven by girls and boys who only looked about 12yrs old! Lots of young calves and lambs around too. Over the River Nairn - and on to follow the river Findhorn. I'll be going up to Shlochd in a short while (close to General Wade's Military Road) on my way to Aviemore. Mabli has run about 8 miles again today, and she's making the most of this break in Strathearn Cafe, Tomatin, by snoozing.
I cycled on past Carr Bridge - the most photographed bridge in the UK  so of course I took a few pics of it too.    Then went to a cafe and Mabli had a utterly mutterly peanut flavouried icecream and I had cake.   

et, I've been getting wet - and the rain is set to stay all day. So I'm sat in a yurt at the holiday park with a warm stove pumping the heat out before I set out for Dalwhinnie. Yesterday, I met the force that is Peter Smithton (I may have got that surname wrong!) - a young and fit bloke who happens to be a paraplegic - pushing his unmotorised wheelchair and pulling a small trailer behind - in aid of Canine Partners. He's been doing LeJog and look how far he's come! I left him facing a steady uphill away from Aviemore vowing I'll never complain in the face of a hill again! Aviemore was heaving. And no room at the Inn. So it was camping again - i've just got my phone and bike battery back from reception, where they charged them overnight. Slept well - though the sleeping mat needs a hole repair - it keeps the damp from rising as it's lined with down. The tent field was FULL of bunnies at 4am - so Mabli went chasing and refused to come back in for an hour. Fortunately she didn't bark at anything - but was wet through by the time she decided to come back to bed. I'm sure she had great fun seeing them all off.
Chanterelles growing outside the reception! Trying to find some accommodation for tonight now, before i get moving again.

I was reluctant to leave the cosy yurt with its log fire - but eventually I set off along the old A9 - which is relatively quiet, running parallel to the new A9 as it does. Strong smell of PINE - lot of timber work taking place. Today, I saw my first red squirrel: It was playing 'chicken' as it dashed across the road in front of me. I should have been on the NCR7 - that follows a more jiggly route on the other side of the river, but flat and plain sailing suited me and Mabs. In Kingussie. I visited a textile museum - the local craftswomen had created a large wall hanging from a plastic fencing panel they'd found in a hedge, and upcycled fabric. They were inviting visitors to sew on green hearts. We also had lunch and Mabs got fussed over by the young couple out with their 11day old baby and the 14month 'big brother'! Mabli cleared the floor underneath the little boy, obligingly. Onwards to Newtonmore where i stopped at the outdoor National Folk museum. Guess what? Dogs are banned - so that saved me a tenner. On again - looking for my hotel - and saw a posh one, next door to the Coop. Its name began with a 'B'. Well - the proprieter looked down his nose at me and said "oh no - we NEVER allow dogs!"- whoops - wrong hotel! The right one was further down the riad. Went to a cafe for tea and cake to await check in at 4pm - i was an hour early. Curious as to what the OYO part of the name is - googled it. It's a franchise run by an Indian company (OYO rooms - or hotels), nos expanding world wide. The room is huge - and has a little heater so i can drape tent etc. all around a dry it all off.

Weather set to improve tomorrow when I'm all set to 
cycle the Drumochter Pass - the highest mountain pass that divides the Northern Scottish Highlands from the Southern Highlands. I have only needed to glance up at the beautiful (if flattened by the grey today) mountains all around on the horizon as I've cycled up the old A9 to be reminded that I am indeed in the HIGHLANDS! Saw my first red squirrel. Also got told about the terrifyingly fierce pinemartins that EAT dogs and will not let them go, once they've got 'em! Beware Mabli! (as if Highland Labradors weren't enough!).   Again - pics are higgledy piggledy.   
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Let's have ANOTHER go at completing the JOGLE trip report!   July 8th Monday, Day 5 of my trip.

12/12/2025

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The only down side of Netherton House Farm was a belligerent black labrador bitch who attacked Mabli and bit her (drawing blood) about half an hour after we arrived -Mabli shrieked!       It was a most bizarre incident, because they'd been getting to know each other for the previous half an hour   the landlady having about half a dozen black labradors running around her yard.    I think Mabli must have looked like she was approaching the kitchen door which was the young black bitch's territory - maybe.  Who knows.  But the landlady was quite embarrassed.  and tried to play it down  whilst telling me that this dog had doen the same thing to other dogs before and was getting very bad tempered.  I was non plussed, but did wonder if there was something physical amiss and said as much.  The farm was a delight   full of plants, books, artworks (and dogs!).  Romy, the landlady said that her dog hadn't bitten Mabli  but she bled over the cot sheets, so I know she had.  
We had slap up breakfast next day  though again, think I upset the landlady by giving the 'best blood sausage in Scotland' to Mabli for HER breakfast!    I didn't share the rest of the full Monty  bacon, eggs, sausage, toast, tomatoes, mushrooms etc.  
Breakfast at ROmy's Farm B&B was a prolonged and excellent affair, where conversation with the other guests was encouraged to the point where I was told to put AWAY the laptop when my fellow diners arrived! One older couple on their way home to Glasgow from oop North and the other Mother and daughter from Sydney Australia doing the UK road tour. The woman from Glasgow's great grandfather built "The City of Adelaide! - the boat now a museum in Adelaide harbour - think I got that right, Jane-Ants Evans-Harris! Before I set out, I remembered to hitch up Groucho's saddle - My knees were hitting my chin yesterday - OK I exaggerate, but it's not comfortable not being able to straignten one's legs when peddling. Much better! UP thte hill and into Culbokie and over the top to traverse the Black Isle. I felt on top of the world, looking back at the Firth. MOstly quiet backroads down to Munlochy, and then it was easy to get back onto the NCR1 to head for the North Kessock Bridge. I resisted calling in at the Black Isle brewery. I was passed by a fit cyclist on the way up to the bridge - and met him again on the bridge itself. He very kindly led me safely into the city centre. Then I decided to get back onto Royston Wood''s route and find somewhere to kip the night. Unbeknownst to me, I was offered a WarmShower's night - but I hadn't checked my email before booking into Ardtower Caravan Park for the night. Tant pis - the night with Susan Guest would have been FAR more interesting - but I needed the sleep. And I managed to get to bed (first night in the tent!) by 9.30pm. I woke up a couple of times as my sleeping mat sssslowly deflated - and Mabli was really not sure what was going on, and couldn't make her mind up whether to sleep IN the tent or between the flysheet and inner. (in the 'porch' bit). She came all the way in, in the middle of the night (when I pumped the exped sleeping mat up for the final time before getting up at just before 6am. Going to set off towards Aviemore now. Some hills today, methinks. And we'll see where I end up sleeping tonight! Wifi very weak on this Caravan Park - horrible piped moosic in the shower/loos too!
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    Tutleymutley

    A not so newly retired Terri following her heart into a world of woolly creativity.  Live the dream

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