The penultimate Day 34: Tuesday 6th August, St Columb Major (Tregonetha Lake campsite) to 'Curlews' hotel (actually just a house with a few bedrooms let out to tourists very cheaply - no breakfast provided) in Point (Devoran). 30.51miles/1092.88 total.

I got up early - but tried to leave taking the tent down as long as possible because of the heavy rain in the night. Took Mabli for a stroll around the lake - and saw a Kingfisher fly over the water with a flash of turquoise - made my day!

It was a lovely morning. I had coffee and porridge made on the trusty trangia sat on a bench overlooking the lake. Mabli enjoyed the sun so much she turned turtle to make sure her tummy baked. The tent had dried, more or less, by the time I got on my way.

I thought I'd get to the 'Curlews' Hotel early because Google said it was only 24 miles or so. HA! I went through Indian Queens (fairly busy road) and paused at St Enoder Church to have a mosie. Crossed the busy A30 (a few times!). Then came the best part of the day - I saw lots of signs to ''The Tartan Fox' - a foody pub owned by Michelin starred chef Adam Handling (his monicker was on everything! The china! the serviettes!). I followed the signs - and arrived just as it was opening at midday. The waiters were all young and good looking - (Surfers, the lot of them!) and friendly. The surroundings were divine and dog friendly. I sat outside, but was encouraged to go inside if it started to rain. I didn't have to ask for the bottle of chilled water and glass (inscribed with 'Adam Handling'!). In fact, the sun came out. To drink, I ordered a low alcohol SW cider - mmm, lush and fresh and appley. And to eat, I ordered chips, beef burger, chef's sauce, lettuce, tomato. It was ready seasoned and tasty. Just the most delicious burger I've had in years. All a little pricy but SO worth it. To finish I asked for a black coffee and it came in a mug! Wonderful. And the sun came out, so a young woman came out and offered us few folk outside suncream! And all the while, there was music playing that was apparently a local radio but went perfectly with the atmosphere - singing and acoustic guitar mostly. The waiter said it was a woman from Melbourne who ran the station. That figured.

After reluctantly leaving the Tartan Fox. I rode on down hill and up dale until I came to Truro. Went into Waterstones, but failed to find anywhere to charge the battery. I hoped it would last, since I only had a smaller than usual mileage to get through. I bought more dog food for Mabs though. I must have ridden around Truro two or three times. Onwards, after coffee, to Carnon Downs. And there, google took me seriously astray once again. There are two bridges across the A39 from Carnon Downs, to take me down hill to Point where lay my destination. I should have taken Tregye Road. Instead google took me down a footpath from Carnon Crescent. The footpath was steep, muddy, stick-strewn and lined with nettles and brambles. It got narrower and muddier. I had got off and was determinedly pushing. Mabs was happy - she had plenty time to sniff around. Then I ran up against a small stile with barbed wire. I wouldn't have been able to get my bicycle over, let alone the trailer! No choice but to turn back. Much cursing and sweaty brow later am back where I started - whereupon Mabli (still off lead) spots a grey cat. Only THIS cat is obviously well accustomed to exitable dogs and stands its ground with arched back and hissy mouth. Mabli is now thoroughly confused and very excited and barky. I am hot, bothered and sweaty and shouty. Pause while equilibrium is restored and I have replaced lead on excitable dog's collar. Ignore google and set off to find Tregye Road, as I should have done in the first place.

It's then straightforward down to the bungalow - which had a for Sale sign outside! Turns out South African Owner is trying to sell his mother's house - and his wife, Penny, is Chinese and trying to get visa to stay in England. They also have house in South Africa. I got confused at this point. Room is huge, lovely view over Creek, ensuite bathroom and big double bed. Very comfy. No meals offered - but it's also very cheap (for hotel standards). I think it was his Mum's room as one had to go through the bathroom to to the bedroom. After settling in, I walked the half mile up to the Quay Inn for some light supper. Dog friendly pub and very pleasant. Walking back again, I strolled around a little bit of the river before going back to the road - where i met an elderly gentleman called Alan - and his new bicycle (which he pushed along so he could chat to me). Someone had asked me if I got lonely a few days before - not possible - so many people to chat to and get to know!

Enjoyed the location. Slept well, despite the room being very warm with a huge picture window that was impossible to open. (There was a smaller open window, but it was a bit like a greenhouse in there!). The owners wanted to get away early, I knew.

​From Holsworthy to camping in Kernomads Healing Fields (or, actually, sneaking a kip in the perfectly comfortable wee caravan on the sofa). Tregylls Farm, near Boscastle. 30.15miles, total to date 1027.52miles

After packing up at South Hogg's Hideaway campsite, I went around to see Julie and have an infusion of coffee before moving on. I had a tour of her beautiful garden, and Mabli snuffled in the long grass as is her wont. The tent was draped over the fence to dry. Julie has an orchard with picnic spot for the grandchidlers - called the wheelbarrow picnic place, coz everything gets taken over to this spot in a wheelbarrow. Of course, I didn't get to leave 'till late morning...

When google says 'moderate hills' - I don't know quite what to expect. My heart soars when I blast downhill towards a bridge - but with that slight trepidation that comes from knowing after every downhill swoop, there is an inevitable uphill slog. I chuck Mabli out so she can run up the hill and lighten the weight, much to her disgust. Though sometimes she chooses to run a little more - quite often, these days, she leaps back in the trailer with alacrity, and curls up for a snooze. All these new places and smells and experiences must be exhausting for her tiny brain! I got on to familar roads as I approached Trelay - where my friend Sally normally lives but was sadly away from home this trip. So I went out of my way to got to the Old Wainright Inn, close to hers - as I knew they did food and would be open, as I called in there when I cycled up to see Sally two (or was it three?) years ago now - when I made Mabli run all the way, but was MUCH slower. They were incredibly busy - the Inn - as it's Sunday and they offer a carvery. I had pasta - and a pud! - which was excellent.
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Interestingly, my route took me into Cornwall and out again, back to Devon a couple times. I would see the black flag with a white cross fluttering. I stopped at a farm and asked to top my water up - and the farmer's wife explained where Devon began again...(she lived in Cornwall - where their farm fields stopped was the actual boundary with Devon). I carried on riding down quiet lanes with high hedges - and a flying car! (static, but intriguing, nevertheless). I had been emailing a campsite to ask if there was somewhere to charge battery (them being offgrid) - and eventually got a reply from Benji saying no, but suggesting an alternative. The hills in Devon and Cornwall were really eating my battery power up by the end of the day - causing me a twinge of anxiety (and this was despite topping it up in a pub at some poing during the day). So I was googling alternatives and spotted the Kernomads site - grand opening festival/party, finishing this very day. I decided to head for there.

It was in the middle of nowhere and the field the google arrow pointed to was full of sheep - overflowing with sheep (never seen such a HUGE flock!). These were the 'healing fields' spoken of. The opening party was over. I phoned the contact number and spoke to Lorraine. She told me to stay where I was, or work my way down past the sheep to the barn, at any rate... I had already gone up and down the lane looking for a 'camp site' - I'd found a couple of stray sheep (escaped from the madding crowd - they soon leapt back through the sagging fence when I rode toward them).

The barn had a sandy floor with a few odd sculptures. There was a sloping field containing what could have been a circular maze (transpires this was the base of what would be the floor for a large yurt). There were also several tarps dotted down alongside the hedgerow.

Lorraine turned up (and called me 'sister'). She accepted £12 (bank transfer) - and said I could camp anywhere, and found a place to charge battery and phone/powerpack. I would be all on my own (I didn't mind at all!). There was also one portaloo. After she left, I had a nose around (after plugging in assorted phone/batteries) and discovered a caravan round the back of the barn with a key in the door and obviously empty (Beds bereft of coverings - covers folded neatly on two beds). As I went back to where I was supposed to pitch my tent (out of the wind, which was blowing a hooley), I decided to make a cup of tea with my trusty trangia and contemplated just putting my sleeping bag in the caravan and save all the hassle of pitching my tent at all...

Two children turned up. Sister Lorraine had already told me that she had 4 children but that farmer Bill (who I never saw) had 6 children. Kimberley and her younger brother John were 2 of the 6 (in the middle). They had been tasked to move some sheets of laminate into a shed, but once that was done (took them a couple trips and I gave them a hand to arrange) They sat down and quizzed me. I told them what me and Mabs had been up to - then I quizzed them about the caravan - yes, it belonged to the Farm, and they sometimes rented it out, but it was currently empty. I asked if they thought Dad would mind me sleeping in there - which was a bit unfair, but they said they thought it would be fine. So that's what I did. After drinking my tea. I put Groucho the bike in the barn (undercover) and moved bags into the caravan and had a very comfy night sleeping on the sofa. It rained heavily during the night, so just as well. I half expected Bill the farmer to turn up and ask what on earth I thought I was doing - but he never materialised and I left the accommodation much as I'd found it. Worth every penny of the £12 (and the portaloo right next door).

​South Hoggs Hideaway Camp (another Greener Camping Club site).
Now I'd tried to get hold of my friend Julie Mann (who I went to Torquay Tech with, 40yrs or so ago!) but I only had her landline number and I now know she doesn't hear or use her landline much! I assumed, because she hadn't answered the messages I'd left (she didn't know there WAS an answerphone service!) - that she must be away so I booked into the camping site next door. This made the £12 membership I'd paid for Greener Camping sites a lot more worthwhile - and, on the whole, they seem like very pleasant, quiet and ecologically sound places to stay. The campsite and Julie shared the same postcode - on the outskirts of Holsworthy - so this was my target for the day. The bicycle chain behaved itself.

I traversed lots of small farm lanes with grass in the middle. passing through Sampford Courtenay, Hatherleigh, Sheepwash.

​When I reached Holsworthy, it was getting late, so I visited the fish and chip shop - quite a queue - but my 'small chips' portion was HUGE and the pasty was cold - I shared half the pasty filling with Mabs and threw most of the chips and pastry away (what a waste!). Then I put my tent up at the campsite and went in search of Julie's house. Well - it's GROWN! The bungalow is now twice the size and has garages too (since the last time I visited - many moons ago). I nearly didn't recognise Juile when she came to the door - and then she smiled and I knew her! It just happened to be Julie's birthday! So she'd had a full day of celebrating with family. We had a great natter on into the dimpsy - when I thought I'd better make my way back to the tent...T'was lovely to catch up - and I've got her mobile phone number now!

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In the morning, I got out the trusty trangia and made coffee and porridge. I'd nipped into Aldi and got Mabs some dog food (and three lamb chops which she'd scoffed the night before) - so she had some breakfast too. All the hot water, USB points on the site are solar powered, and the loos are modelled on Thunderboxes. The farmer had charged my battery for me (outside, so I was a little apprehensive about the rain, but I needn't have worried).

The campsite host, Carol, is a dog agility fan and holds competititons at Buckland Farm - transpires Debs, my agility dog trainer, judges some of them. By the time I'd chatted to a few of the other campers, and waited for my tent to be thoroughly dry and showered and eaten - it was getting on for 11am. But that was OK - because I'd PMed Nic, Ben, Jen, Brendan - asking for accommodation for tonight - thinking they lived in Crediton. They don't, they live in HONITON, which isn't anything like as far. I knew that, I really did. So I could be quite leisurely.

OUt of the campsite - I climbed a hill. A big hill. We are in the Blackdown HIlls. Near the top, I met Emily, a local dogwalker. We discussed what I was doing, and routes (among other things - I tell you, I dawdle given any opportunity). She looked at the google recommendations and advised on THAT way lay hills - many more hills like the one I'd just climbed. In the end I opted to follow her advice and stick to some of the busier roads that run across the plateau without dipping down into the Clune valley so much. Slightly longer, but time and effort (and battery power) saved. The roads were actually quite quiet, though the cars were fast when they did appear. ON the way, I passed into Devon. Woohooo!

I stopped off at an icecream/farm shop and got chatting to a couple of elderly ladies from Exeter (one of whom had run a dance school and the other who had attended her dance school!). The student dancer had heard of Woodcraft Folk but hadn't realised they were still going. She knows now.  (I was raising funds for the Woodies - ultimately I raised over £1400 for our Centenary celebration camp at Kelmarsh Hall).  

Around the corner I came to the Otter Inn, next to the River Otter (of course), that Nic had recommended for the cooling down of Mabli. Mabs needed no encouragement (and we ignored the big signs saying 'keep your dog on a LEAD'! Needs must.
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NIc and Ben have been wonderful hosts... and Di turned up also, with E and C, the girls (who are both quite grown up now). Great supper, good conversation. And I've booked tomorrow night with another friend too. 38miles away, this time.

Next day, I was back on the Strawberry Line. I think I was passing through the Somerset Levels, and various Moors were metioned on the map - whatever, it was flat cycling.

The land is crisscrossed with waterways called 'rhynes' - all covered in green and reeds. But I passed several rivers - including the Tone, but further up the road was a River Creech (iirc) - stopped there so Mabs could perhaps get wet (she didn't) and a guy in an orange VW van stopped to say hello. He told me about the 'Little Eden campsite' he and his wife were starting up on land he'd inherited from his Gran - I could have stayed there for free, if I had wanted! I told him about warmshowers. I think he was quite religious from the occasional 'God' dropping into the conversation, but also a counsellor/listener. I agreed to 'like' his campsite on FB as he seemed pleasant enough.

I passed a station with a tide mark plaque WAY above my head - at least 18 feet above my head! Just past this waterpumping station was a bridge, and I could see a couple people splashing around in the river with a dog. Ah, a perfect place for Mabs to cool off. The couple had a staffie called Blue, who was totally deaf - he was a good swimmer, though maybe not as good as Mabli. The woman was throwing rocks to make the dogs swim this way and that - Mabli very nearly didn't want to come with me - I had to call her from the bridge before she came racing over.

Further up the road, I came up behind another cyclist and we got chatting - she was called Rachel, now retired, but had worked with brain injured people at one time. We had an interesting chat whilst cycling along and the time flew. She showed me to 'The Purple Spoon' cafe (attached to the YMCA) on the canal path - I had reached Bridgwater and the start of the Bridgwater/Taunton canal path.

This canal I I remember as being the cause of a painful bike crash 10yrs ago - where I cycled through a couple of path narrowing metal bars and forgot that panniers make the bicycle wider - the bike stopped and I didn't. Duh. But I didn't encounter any of THOSE today - just a few gates to slow progress. The cafe allowed me to charge my battery, which is just as well, as I eventually did 47.44miles to Buckland Farm campsite - an eco green camping site for which I had to pay membership to the 'Green campsite club' (membership lasts a year - will have to look for others to make it worth my while!).

By the time I reached Taunton, I was hot and bothered - all my clothes stuck to me! Then I noticed my bike rack had completely snapped by the saddle - and my panniers were hanging loose in a dangerous fashion. Urk. I did a quick bodge job with a bungee and googled bike shops. There were several in the vicinity so I chose the nearest. I got there about 20mins before closing and asked them to fit a new sturdier bike rack - please! (They must hate people like me turning up at just before closing time!).   They fixed Groucho - bike rack a huge improvement over the old one - but for a princely sum. I was suitably grateful (but no haggling over giving them more, like I had done with Sam at the Bike Shop in Thurso).

When I got to the campsite - I discovered the nearest pub was back downhill - about 1 1/2 miles. Sigh. But I had a good, if expensive supper out.
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AT 4 in the morning, I had to get up for a pee (like one does at our age). It was just spotting with rain, but soon turned into a downpour. Mabli had gone out with me and didn't want to come straight back to bed. Half an hour later a very soggy dog wanted to join me - up at the pillow end of the tent. Much tutting and I had to move my mat down to make room because she wasn't going to shift. Dogs? Who'd have 'em?