Monday 28th November, Kurul, just outside Alibag to Murud 29.6miles.

​Sleep well and wake up at 3am.  Too early.  Go back to sleep until 06.30hrs.  Whoops – a bit later than planned.  Get given coffee and a plate of ‘nice’ biscuits before a royal send off with the women and my favourite translator Janmayee,waving and taking pictures.  Rowenna is given a flower – which falls off not so far up the road, it’s so bumpy!  Seth nearly got a wife as I was asked if he was married and if not, would he like an Indian wife?  I replied that he would have to decide that for himself.  Teehee.
 
The morning cycle is cool but slow, as the road is potholed and gravelly.  Beautiful painted trucks roll past.  I spot an Indian Kingfisher and take a picture.  Past temples and palm trees and down to the beach.  I am travelling down the Konkan coast – past Rajindi but don’t stop to visit the fort I can see up on a hill.  I stop for some thick, milky spicy chai washed down with water.  Must try and find an Indian burger later. 
 
I am heading for Murud (which reminds me of ‘murder’ and ‘redrum’) and the ferry across the estuary.  I am loving this trip so much – it makes me feel alive.
 
I stop for breakfast after going for a swim in the sea.  The surf was vicious and slapped me about and batted me down like another piece of plastic.  The water is the temperature of a baby bath and looked muddy.  I have no towel now, but the sun soon dries me off while I sit in the shade and read my book, occasionally glancing at the four skin and bones puppies and the mother dog, who is still hanging around but not feeding them anymore.   I was very surprised when a European family with babies and toddlers in tow, turned up and set up camp on the otherwise deserted beach.  Haven’t seen any other westerners since I left Mumbai. 
 
Onward to Murud, and the road became a little more undulating (though nothing like Europe’s hills).  I got off and pushed Rowenna, more because of the unrelenting heat than because of the altitude. 
 
Arriving in Murud, I was fished for, but I talked the fisherman guy down from 1400rupees to 1000rupees (with no breakfast) for the room.  My room overlooked the beach – and I took a stroll along it as the sun went down.  There were horses galloping along and occasionally scooters pootling along as well as other folk strolling. 
 
Went in search of food and am pleased to find a vegetable tali for 90 rupees, including a pudding.  On the computer sat outside the back a while later (where the wifi more or less worked) and the landlady comes out and gives me another rice pudding!