I carried on, but my heart isn’t in travelling: I just wanted to lie down somewhere pleasant and soak all the heat up.
I went into a Macdonalds because I knew they have wifi. I sent a few emails, and saw pictures of Lustleigh Mayday on Facebook – my neighbour’s daughter Talia was Queen of the May and looked beautiful. And Mayday looks to have had the best weather in years – as good at home as it is here in Germany.
Unlike the cold, which draws one in on oneself, condenses, shivering - heat is expansive and it leaches. Sweat puddles on my face and I feel sticky all over, losing salts and minerals with perspiration and feel really heavy and tired. There’s a good argument for taking a siesta in such weather I think.
I am in Eussenheim – and contemplating camping somewhere unobtrusive again. I am having a weird supper in an old fashioned German restaurant called something like the Golden Krone. I ordered something like chicken and everything on my plate is covered in golden breadcrumbs and deep-fried. The saving grace is that it came with a salad of the standard variety- round, floppy (but fresh) lettuce, couple slices tomato, grated carrot and radish in a runny cross between mayo and vinegraitte dressing. I was hungry and it went. I even asked if they had a room for the night but was quite relieved when they said ‘nein’! Over supper I met a French/Australian couple who had emigrated to Oz in 1971 and who were doing the tour of the homelands and visiting relatives. It was odd to be speaking English fluently again.
Just a little bit further along the cycle path, I see a sign for ‘Bett and Bike’ and Gãsthaus Pension Heuler – I decide to investigate, feeling too hot and bothered to go much further. The house looked very pleasant – clean and light with a ‘wilkommen’ arrangement of roses in the shape of a heart on the reception desk and similar decorations on the walls. Not only did they have a room, with a balcony and enough space to swing several cats in, but it came with breakfast included at the bargain price of €47. Someone had taken great trouble to make the place beautiful: Japanese inspired flower arranging, and colour coordinated décor (poppies in the dining room overlooking open fields). A dried flower arrangement on the first floor (where my room was to be found) included a tiny flax spinning wheel, with flax still on the distaff, but the flyer askew and the driveband loose and tangled in twigs. There was a bobbin on the flyer so it was probably a working wheel – poor thing.
The shower was glorious, and the room with a balcony complete with sun loungers and table, and chair cushions in the wardrobe – we’ll overlook the clean ashtray – overlooking the sunset, which, despite the rapidly dimming light, I felt inspired to make the daily draw.
Best hotel yet – I’ll give it 5* and one to make note of to drag Steve to in the future (after all, it’s within driving distance, via Eurotunnel?).