I got up early again – to take down camp and get to the ferry in time for 7am. I got there on time – which turned out to be FAR too early as the ferry doesn’t leave until 08.45hrs! But the coast is clear to put Rowenna on board while I go and have coffee. I then have loads of time to watch pandemonium ensue. One has to drive through a dark tunnel to get to the top of the dam where the ferries (and there are four that take vehicles up river now, with smaller pedestrian only ones too) are moored. Lots of minivan taxis pick up tourists from the hotels in Shkroder and all around and drop them off – so they just drive in willy nilly along with all the other vehicles trying to get on the ferries or drop off cargo. With so much chaos, I never thought it would clear and there were some close calls as vehicles tried to reverse or turn around in such a confined space. Miraculously – it all did eventually sort itself out. The first car ferry was chocka – all seats filled. Our ferry had one campervan (Ulli and Andy’s); 4 motorbikes from Czeski, and half a dozen pedestrians – loads of room to roll around on the deck, sit with my feet swinging off the edge, practically dragging hands through water – couldn’t do that on a ferry at home, for sure! If you looked closely at the rickety planks that made up the deck (and showed the water through the cracks) and the wiring put together and wrapped with tape, and the seating upstairs that was held to the railings with plastic zip ties and where the seating was falling through – but it probably didn’t pay to examine such things too closely. The RORO ferry Herald of Free Enterprise disaster did momentarily cross my mind – but then I dismissed it as the ferry departed and the stunning views of the mountains opened out – it looked like we would head straight for a cliff then we’d bend around to the right and or left and the steep sides would close in… Ully and Andy even served me breakfast of Bosnian salami sausage on bread and butter with tomato and cheese on the side (and one more plum!) – which I ate while sat cross legged at the very front of the boat (prow?) watching the river unfold. Imagine a River Dart trip lasting three times as long with steeper banks and mountains layering in the distance – then halve the price of the ticket! I can see why a Guardian travel writer would call it one of the most awesome boat trips in the world.
I said goodbye to Ulli and Andy when we reached our destination 3 hours after we set off, and I went on to Bajram Curri and they went south – (to conserve funds – the ferry was far more expensive for the van than for my bicycle - €45 more! Which they hadn’t expected – so they needed to go find an ATM). We got on so well, so quickly – I know we’ll meet again – In fact I invited them to Devon (as they plan to drive around the South West and Wales some time next year) – or I’ll visit them in Cologne. I also chatted briefly to a couple of cycle tourists who were returning on the ferry I just arrived on – continuing North. They passed me on some Macedonian Monopoly money which was really kind of them. I’m meeting more and more cycle tourers now – which is great. Except I’m usually so tired when I do meet them, that when they ask obvious questions like “Where have you been?” my mind goes blank and I can’t remember – where HAVE I just come from? That’s a little bit scary, isn’t it? But I think it’s just a result of sensory overload. I take a step backwards and focus and, oh yes, I was in Koman this morning – by which time the cycle tourists have moved onto another topic anyway.
Everyone either returns to the ferry for the backward journey, or drives off. I am left all alone with a stray dog looking hopefully at me. I set off for Bajram Curri (pronounced Bai-ram Tsuri) on the bicycle – past the town of Fierze. I go slowly but no idea how slowly as my bicycle computer is not working. I had no idea how much I relied on this for entertainment until it died– letting me know how far I’ve come, how far I’ve got to go, how fast I’m going etc.
About two miles from destination, it starts working again – just as I’m passing a statue which has to date from communist times – a soldier looking valiant and hefting a rifle (which I don’t think is related). I have no idea why it started working again. Maybe I need to try a new battery anyway. I stop off at the first hotel I come to – no shopping around! - and pay 2,500lek for a room with no air conditioning and no insect screens. Good shower – so I wash my small amount of dirty clothing while I wash myself. Walk up into town to get some cash from the ATM there – I don’t know how safe this would feel as there are many men out and about, and hardly any women – but the presence of two policemen on the street is reassuring.
I said goodbye to Ulli and Andy when we reached our destination 3 hours after we set off, and I went on to Bajram Curri and they went south – (to conserve funds – the ferry was far more expensive for the van than for my bicycle - €45 more! Which they hadn’t expected – so they needed to go find an ATM). We got on so well, so quickly – I know we’ll meet again – In fact I invited them to Devon (as they plan to drive around the South West and Wales some time next year) – or I’ll visit them in Cologne. I also chatted briefly to a couple of cycle tourists who were returning on the ferry I just arrived on – continuing North. They passed me on some Macedonian Monopoly money which was really kind of them. I’m meeting more and more cycle tourers now – which is great. Except I’m usually so tired when I do meet them, that when they ask obvious questions like “Where have you been?” my mind goes blank and I can’t remember – where HAVE I just come from? That’s a little bit scary, isn’t it? But I think it’s just a result of sensory overload. I take a step backwards and focus and, oh yes, I was in Koman this morning – by which time the cycle tourists have moved onto another topic anyway.
Everyone either returns to the ferry for the backward journey, or drives off. I am left all alone with a stray dog looking hopefully at me. I set off for Bajram Curri (pronounced Bai-ram Tsuri) on the bicycle – past the town of Fierze. I go slowly but no idea how slowly as my bicycle computer is not working. I had no idea how much I relied on this for entertainment until it died– letting me know how far I’ve come, how far I’ve got to go, how fast I’m going etc.
About two miles from destination, it starts working again – just as I’m passing a statue which has to date from communist times – a soldier looking valiant and hefting a rifle (which I don’t think is related). I have no idea why it started working again. Maybe I need to try a new battery anyway. I stop off at the first hotel I come to – no shopping around! - and pay 2,500lek for a room with no air conditioning and no insect screens. Good shower – so I wash my small amount of dirty clothing while I wash myself. Walk up into town to get some cash from the ATM there – I don’t know how safe this would feel as there are many men out and about, and hardly any women – but the presence of two policemen on the street is reassuring.
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